‘Every Cook Must Learn At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Dining Spot Secures Fourth on Ranking of London’s Best Restaurants.

Whenever compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate well-known high-end venues. But, nestled high among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This honour has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” says a proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest shop earning such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

The Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.